As part for my ’50th’ year on planet earth, the hope is to visit and travel to as many new places as possible – funds permitting. The last three months of 2017 are going to be a bit of a travel-fest for me and it kicked off at the start of October by flying out with Thomas Cook to the Greek island of Kos.
I will always be comparing other Greek island to that of Kefalonia & Ithaca, which stole my heart back in May, but as the plane touched down at Hippocrates, Kos international airport, I was determined to keep an open mind and open heart.
Ok, so I’m going to get it out the way and then it’s done with – the hotel I was staying at, The Zeus in Kefalos, was bad. Not the hotel itself but the attitude of the staff towards sole female travellers it seems, and compounded only by the fact that I’m teetotal so wasn’t going to be throwing money over the bar. I won’t go into details as it is an ongoing situation with the holiday company, but needless to say, if you are single, female and teetotal don’t stay here! I seriously contemplated finding alternative accommodation as I was dreading returning here at the end of the day, often in tears – and anyone who knows me will tell you how ruddy tough I am and nothing usually phases me.
I was visiting at the end of the season and sadly it showed, Kefalos beach and resort, whilst very pretty and quiet, was also quite scruffy, purely down to the tourists so I would recommend visiting at the start of the season – the sea maybe colder but the beaches and streets will be cleaner. Having arrived mid-afternoon, I spent a few hours exploring the local area from Kastri Islet & Agios Nicolaos Church (near where I was staying), down to Kamari Habour at the other end of the bay. The area has loads of supermarkets, bars and restaurants but as with the tail end of any resort, quite a few were already shut but there was still enough open to choose from.
My first full day there and I decided to stay quite local and walk up to the old village of Kefalos and then across to the other side of the island to Limnionas. With most Greek islands, there are many, many hills to climb and the ascent up to the village was pretty steep but certainly do-able, plus it offers great views of the bay and has many cafes to stop and replenish yourself at.
The walk across to Limnionas is straightforward enough, there’s only one road there to follow and you get to see some amazing views and how the locals live en route. Limnionas itself is a small harbour with a beach and the sea spectacularly pounding against the rocks. There’s a fish taverna, which happily caters for veggies too.
Rather than returning the same way, I took a detour and went along the road that travels along the tail end ridge of the island. Just before the turn off there’s a little German cafe, hidden away in a windmill, called the Die Große Mühle, which serves homemade tea and cake – I totally recommend a pitstop there! I had a slice of the yoghurt cake and the ‘special’ citrus drink with almond in it – both very good and much needed after the walk back up from Limnionas Bay.
After yet stuffing my face again, I headed along the road back towards Kefalos and the Ancient Basilica at Agios Stefanos Beach. There are a lot of ruins on Kos, and towards the end of the week, you find yourself becoming slightly blasé about seeing them. The one on the beach at Kefalos though is one of the best as you can fully explore it on foot, unrestricted with the sea lapping around you – perfect!
With the day coming to a close and my feet aching, I headed back to my room for an early night as day 2 meant a bus trip to the town of Kos!